The 14 finalists for the 2021 ANDAM Trend Award hail principally from Europe, and have a tendency to specialise in fashions that blur boundaries and worth inclusivity. Sustainability is virtually a given.
Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby established the Berlin-based label GmbH in 2016, rapidly gaining a popularity for sustainable practices and an aesthetic that references underground membership tradition, migration, politics, queerness and extra. Their gender-fluid collections are identified for progressive tailoring, streetwear cool and subversive touches, with their fall 2021 assortment boasting sensual off-the-shoulder coats and jackets worn by males.
Final month, Işık and Huseby had been named inventive administrators of Trussardi and are to indicate their first assortment for fall 2022.
Işık is a first-generation German of Turkish descent and Huseby, of Norwegian-Pakistani heritage, grew up in Norway. Cultural mixes and a way of otherness have knowledgeable GmbH, and the town and cultural scene of Berlin have additionally formed their method. Final yr GmbH was a finalist for the Woolmark Prize.
Charaf Tajer launched Casablanca in 2018 as a males’s put on label after a number of different profitable endeavors: as a accomplice within the Paris-based inventive collective Ache O Chokolat, as cofounder of the clothes label Pigalle and after launching sizzling nightclubs, together with Le Pompon.
Casablanca rapidly turned a byword for snazzy silk shirts, funky terry-cloth tracksuits and funky sneakers, the latter achieved in collaboration with New Steadiness. Early celeb adoptees of the label included J Balvin, Travis Scott, Gigi Hadid and Hailey Bieber, which compelled Tajer to make his assortment coed.
Tajer plans to develop a full life-style providing, with the ambition of positioning Casablanca among the many apex of French luxurious manufacturers. The designer was born in France, however his dad and mom met working in a tailoring workshop within the Moroccan metropolis that impressed the label’s identify.
Launched in 2014 by design duo Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, who met at Parsons College of Design, Space has made a reputation for itself with a glittery, typically racy tackle girls’s put on that mixes the excessive gloss of a Seventies style journal with a distinctly Millennial embrace of inclusivity.
“Our model is all about glamour and actually the polarizing thought of what that could possibly be,” Panszczyk instructed WWD in 2019. Celebrities who’ve embraced its eccentric, DIY-tinged aesthetic are as numerous as Michelle Obama, Katy Perry and Ariana Grande.
Final January, the New York-based model made its first couture assortment, using virtually 500,000 Swarosvki crystals on designs impressed by historical civilizations.
A 2014 graduate of Central Saint Martins, Grace Wales Bonner started exploring representations of Black male sexuality and identification along with her fashions, later taking up private explorations of African identification and spirituality and branching out into girls’s put on.
Working with a small crew, the British designer has received a slew of style awards, together with the 2016 LVMH Prize and the 2019 BFC/Vogue Designer Trend Fund. Her garments are carried at retailers together with Matchesfashion.com, Dover Road Market, Internet-a-porter, Ssense, Browns, Boon the Store and Galeries Lafayette.
She has racked up collaborations with Adidas Originals and with Maria Grazia Chiuri on Dior’s cruise 2020 assortment. Final yr, Wales Bonner started displaying her assortment throughout Paris Trend Week.
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN
A style design graduate from The Duperré College of Utilized Arts, Ludovic de Saint Sernin labored for quite a lot of French homes together with Balmain earlier than launching his signature label for spring 2018.
His unabashedly attractive, exacting garments are for each sexes, however are proven predominantly on males, together with underwear that laces up the entrance or again with rows of grommets. He additionally makes bandage tops, silky pajamas and brief skirts.
In 2020, he launched swimwear and entered the official calendar of Paris Trend Week Males’s. In 2018, he received the ANDAM Artistic Label prize.
He operates his personal e-store and in addition sells his skimpy designs through Ssense, Matchesfashion.com, H. Lorenzo and Departamento in Los Angeles, Joyce in Hong Kong and ENG in Shanghai.
Born in Seoul and raised in Austin, Tex., Rok Hwang studied style at Central Saint Martins, occurring to chop his enamel on the likes of Celine, Louis Vuitton and Chloé. He launched his London-based style home Rokh in 2016, providing cool, of-the-moment girls’s put on.
In a short while, he amassed greater than 100 high wholesale shoppers interested in his distinctive viewpoint combining pragmatic dressing, romance and avenue edge.
Shirts with break up sleeves, blazers that includes sharp layers, a mannish coat with a spliced physique held collectively by toggle fastenings, or a trench that includes an open again and buttoned panels that may be pulled aside have been a number of the model’s standout items.
Drawing on her British and West Indian background, Bianca Saunders is just not afraid to discover the extra weak facet of males. Her fall assortment was influenced by photographer Man Ray, and stretched material imagery by Erwin Wurm, and featured her second collaboration with Wrangler.
“My foremost purpose for the model was to create that steadiness. You get the actually over-masculine man and effeminate man current in the identical world. Even the items may be seen as barely extra female. I believe that is how I create the vitality that brings one thing completely different, and extra issues to the lads’s put on dialog,” the Royal Faculty of Artwork graduate instructed WWD lately.
Saunders can be a finalist for the LVMH Prize.
Listed here are the 4 nominees for the Pierre Bergé Prize, which focuses on younger French corporations and comes with 100,000 euros and mentoring from Sophie Delafontaine, inventive director at Longchamp:
CHARLES DE VILMORIN
Since launching his model in April 2020 within the midst of the coronavirus pandemic, Charles de Vilmorin has loved a meteoric rise, making his debut at Paris Couture Week in January, and subsequently being named inventive director of French style home Rochas.
Identified for his colourful work tinged with darkness, the French designer has made a splash with quilted bomber jackets and sculptural hourglass attire impressed by the work of artist Niki de Saint Phalle. In step with his genderless aesthetic, he incessantly makes use of make-up and physique portray to rework fashions into avatars for the fantastical creatures he attracts.
De Vilmorin can be a finalist for the LVMH Prize.
Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix launched their genderless label in 2019, attracting consideration on social media for posting a photograph of Glémarec’s eightysomething grandparents sporting biker jackets and matching leather-based pants — hers hand-painted with roses, his sprouting sharp spikes.
The model is called after Austrian painter Egon Scheile and its “tailor-made urban-punk DNA goals to decorate all physique shapes, all genders of all ages with out ever distorting them.”
Whereas tailoring has been the main target of current collections, its first collaboration — with sportswear label Sergio Tacchini — added a streetwear affect. The designers purpose to create a way of life model, and encompass themselves with visible artist and music sorts.
Cofounders Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre have caught the business’s consideration with their novel method: one-size-fits-all adjustable garments that accommodate everybody from a U.S. dimension 2 to a dimension 22 — because of adjustable belts, straps and snaps.
The Brussels-based duo incorporate inclusivity and sustainability into all features of their enterprise, from the design to the look guide to the procuring expertise. Along with lowering waste by producing just one dimension, they use recycled materials and manufacture the items regionally, in a vocational coaching workshop for weak staff.
They joined Paris Trend Week final yr, and in addition launched their first purse line incorporating a clasped-hands emblem that symbolizes sorority.
Uniforme is the brainchild of Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats, each graduates of the Studio Berçot style faculty who racked up expertise at a spread of Paris style manufacturers (Balenciaga, Lanvin, Ami and Wooyoungmi amongst them) earlier than launching sustainably minded Uniforme in 2017.
They describe their method as “aware minimalism,” creating designs with army and utilitarian influences however with the convenience of streetwear. In 2020, they moved their studio from Paris to Nantes to work extra intently with their manufacturing companions and reconnect with nature.
“We consider in a method of consuming style that includes by sparingly, however higher, holding onto favorites and passing them alongside,” they clarify.
And listed below are the three finalists for the Equipment Prize, which comes with 50,000 euros and mentoring from Giovanna Engelbert, Swarovski’s inventive director:
Sonia Ahmimou based the Aswad leather-based items workshop in Paris in 2015 after spending greater than a decade studying the métier at Louis Vuitton, Moynat and Hermès.
Her model identify derives from the literary Arabic phrase “hajar el aswad,” that means the black stone. In line with her model’s web site, its aesthetic is positioned “on the crossroads of Moroccan and French craftsmanship and in our attachment to the preservation of conventional expertise.”
Her modern luggage, some with zippered exterior compartments, and small leather-based items are bought on her web site and to pick out wholesale accounts, together with Merci in Paris, Zero + Maria Cornejo in Los Angeles, Duro Olowu in London and The Uncovered Home in Abu Dhabi.
Primarily based in Vienna and based in 2017, Printed By creates sculptural equipment impressed by structure and trendy artwork, together with gleaming, stone-shaped chrome luggage slung on leather-based ropes, plus offbeat brooches, harnesses and necklaces.
Founder and artistic director Christoph Tsetinis employs CAD-manufacturing packages from the automotive business and incorporates recycled automotive components in a bid to scale back waste and push inventive boundaries. He works along with his accomplice Ruby Wallen, who’s managing director of the corporate.
Patrons and shoppers are proven a spread of merchandise through the design part and solely probably the most sought-after merchandise are produced, reducing down on samples and overproduction.
Skulls, flowers, eyes, lips and the odd penis determine may be discovered on the baroque and barely surreal jewellery of Samuel François, a French stylist typically seen trailing behind Numero editor in chief Babeth Djian. He has been with the journal for greater than 20 years and is at the moment its style director.
Whereas he educated on the style faculty Studio-Berçot, François is self-taught in jewelry-making and sculpts every wax mannequin, handing them to grasp craftsmen who maintain the bronze enameling.
His model dates from 2017 and references his many journeys to Naples, the place he attracts explicit inspiration from the Fontanelle cemetery, and in addition categorical his style for antiquity.